A look into the history, culture and future of surfing in San Francisco

On the western side of San Francisco lies a historic stretch of surf that inspired and battered athletes for nearly a century.
From the dunes of the early Sunset District to inventions that changed the world, surfers worked against strong factors to develop their own culture that continues today.
The waves along the Great Highway, the westernmost roadway completed in 1929 that runs along Ocean Beach, can be elusive and dangerous to even the most accomplished of surfers.
This past week the National Weather Service predicted waves from 20 to 40 feet, with some over 50 feet. Safety officials issued a High Surf Warning on Friday, Dec. 14, although some surfers decided to take their chances.
“I’ve never said this before but I think the ocean forgot how to make waves,” said Chris Siedensticker, a 45-year-old father working in tech finance. Siedensticker said he began surfing with a friend when he moved to the Bay Area 15 years ago, and he surfs about 70 percent of his time at Ocean Beach.
“There was just water randomly moving in an unorganized fashion. And then when it did figure out how to make a wave, the wave shape was awful,” he said. “But it was nice. I was the only one out there and that’s always pretty rad, actually.”
On Dec. 7, 2018 surfer Jay Siedeman drowned at Ocean Beach near Sloat Boulevard. He was retrieved from the water around 12:30 p.m. and taken to the hospital. He died later that day.
In order to support his wife and two sons, Siedeman’s co-workers from Oath, a branding company owned by Verizon, created a GoFundMe account with a goal of raising $50 thousand. At the time of print the account raised $167 thousand in donations for the family.
“He brought out the very best in his friends and family – not to mention you could always count on Jay for some light-hearted fun,” said his coworkers on the website. “Our lives will forever be changed by Jay and his laughter will be deeply missed.”
“You never know, something unpredictable can always happen,” said 24-year-old air quality instrument specialist Jack Connor. Connor began surfing with his father when he was five years old in his hometown of San Diego.
“In my opinion it’s a matter of statistics. There’s some risk and I feel like I’m competent and capable in the ocean,” he said. “And I trust myself to not put myself in a situation where something bad can happen.”
“I think that it’s more dangerous to drive a car, to get in an automobile than to surf here, so I also rationalize it that way,” said Connor.
This week the Mavericks Challenge surf contest was postponed due to dangerous conditions. Some surfers still took to the water to see swells up to 35 feet, although the World Surf League officials determined that they could wait until around January for better conditions.
For the first time 10 women will compete in the Mavericks Challenge contest, along with 24 men. The contest is part of the Big Wave Tour, which already stopped in Portugal and Hawaii.
Surfing is a dangerous sport, and it’s mostly practiced alone. This goes especially for a place like Ocean Beach, which has a “beach break.” The beach is sand bottom, and there are no rocks or jetties to break the waves in certain places.
So in addition to the strong force of the water, the waves can break anywhere at anytime.
“There’s no danger of hitting something out there, besides another human. The main danger is how much water is moving out there,” said Cody Moore, who works at Sunset Shapers, a surf shop on Noriega Street.
“There are some days where you spend the whole surf session a little, like, nervous,” he said. “If you panic, then bad things happen.”
Other than the force of the waves, another major issue for early surfers was the sheer freezing temperatures of the Pacific Ocean.
In order to regulate their body temperatures, early Sunset surfers would build a bonfire during their sessions. One person would remain behind to tend to the fire while others surfed, and surfers would switch out and return to the fire after short bouts in the water to warm up.
One man recognized the need for protective gear that would combat the freezing cold and changed the world of cold-water surfing forever.

Jack O’Neill is opened the first “surf shop” in 1952 and is credited with the commercial success of the wetsuit. The neoprene material he popularized in his brand O’Neill is used by surfers to this day, and his name is celebrated in the Ocean Beach community.
O’Neill was born in 1923 and died in June of 2017 in his home in Santa Cruz. He and his late wife Marjorie Bennett lived in Ocean Beach before making Santa Cruz their home.
Surfers began trying to tame the Sunset waves in the mid-1930s. The documentary film “The Great Highway,” directed by Mark Gunson, brings light to the long history of surfing in the Sunset District.
Before the area was included in the city of San Francisco, the Sunset was an expanse of sand dunes. In the 1890s a community of horse-drawn street cars turned affordable homes called Carville grew along the ocean.
By 1910, the accessibility of cable car lines made it possible to people to live away from downtown and commute to their jobs. Slowly people began to build more “real homes” and the transit car neighborhood of artists and outcasts faded into the sand.
The beginning of surfing in the Sunset is credited in part to the lifeguards at the Fleishhacker Pool. A gift to the city from City Parks Commissioner and financier Herbert Fleishhacker, the world’s largest heated salt-water pool opened to the Sunset community in 1925.
The pool was 1,000 feet in length and up to 160 feet wide, and held an impressive 6,500,000 gallons of filtered saltwater. Only the best swimmers served as lifeguards for the pool, and shortly after its opening, they began to body surf in the waves.
When the lifeguards of the Fleishhacker Pool took to the ocean, they wore only speedos. Realizing that they needed more protection, they switched to long underwear or sweaters coated in oily sealant.
Later, with the tutelage of Hawaiian surfers, the early Sunset surfers began to shape their own boards. One spot in particular became popular with the community, the northernmost point of Ocean Beach called Kelly’s Cove.
Since around the 1940s, people flocked to surf at Kelly’s Cove, and the culture of community endures the test of time. While technology, politics, and the cost of living change drastically, the collective love for the ocean never falters.
“The connection you get with a wave is unparalleled,” said surfer and student Keelan Gardner. The 31-year-old moved to San Francisco from Washington State in early December and spends his mornings at the beach with his rescue dog, Ollie.
“There is a nice community and working at this shop is a really great way for me to be a part of that community,” said Cody Moore at Sunset Shapers.













